Sevilla to Santiponce: 9.5km
Ascent: 95m Descent: -88m

The Vía begins outside the main door of the cathedral, turn right to follow the tram tracks along Avenida de la Constitución, then at the corner of the cathedral turn left on to Calle García de Vinuesa, then first right on to Calle Jimios. This becomes Calle Zaragoza, which you follow through various twists and turns until it intersects with Puerta de Triana, where you'll see Café de Indias on your left. Now turn left and continue straight to cross Triana Bridge (Puente de Isabel II). Once across the river turn right after the Mercado de Triana along Calle San Jorge and Calle de Castilla. Where the Camino crosses Ronda de Triana, to the left is a Carrefour supermarket that opens at 08:00 working days, otherwise 09:00. 150m further you'll come to a modern square where there's a monument to the Vía de la Plata marking 1000km to Santiago (it’s a bit late now to start wondering if what you’re doing is a good idea). Walk up the steps to the right which bring you to a main road. Walk anticlockwise around the roundabout, crossing two busy roads (traffic is dangerous here) then turning right on to a footpath and left down to a large, run-down carpark where you veer right and then left to cross the narrow bridge across the main branch of the Guadalquivir. This route is marked with yellow arrows but they're easy to miss in the city. Once outside the city they become easier to spot.

3.3km from the cathedral, just after crossing the narrow bridge over the main branch of the Guadalquivir, you have the option to continue straight to pass through the suburb of Camas, or to go right along the bank of the river (muddy after wet weather) and bypass Camas. Don't let the grimness of this first part get you down, things improve once you're out of the city.

It's 6km to Santiponce, from the point where the routes divide regardless which way you go.

RIGHT / RIVER ROUTE 5.3km

Walk along the banks of the river for 1.3km then follow a lane as it veers left. In 1.5km you'll pass under an elevated motorway then continue straight under railway tracks and another motorway, then right to join a main road which you follow to the left to a roundabout where you rejoin the left route and turn right towards Santiponce. This route passes through some run down, deserted areas and not everyone will feel comfortable walking it on their own. You may encounter cute donkeys and unfortunately also loose dogs.

LEFT / CAMAS ROUTE 5.2km

1.5km to Camas from where the routes divide. Shops, cafés, bank, pharmacy. 

In Camas turn right at the roundabout with the fountain in the middle on to Calle José Payán and follow this until you come to the Church of Santa Maria de Gracia where you take the street to its left, also called Santa Maria de Gracia. From here the Camino continues straight along the side of a busy main road through suburbs and industrial areas, through two roundabouts until after 3.3km at a roundabout you come to where the two routes rejoin. Continue straight towards Santiponce.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN 1km BEFORE SANTIPONCE

Santiponce to Guillena: 12.8km
Ascent: 116m Descent: -119m

Continue north along the main road through Santiponce, after 2.2km veer right at a roundabout and under the motorway and then veer left where the Camino leaves the main road.

In late 2023 construction of a new Vía Verde (greenway) was completed from here to Guillena. It veers right after you leave the main road 2.5km after Santiponce. Camino signposting at this point now indicates both routes. LEFT (or straight ahead) is the original route and RIGHT is the new Vía Verde.

Following the new right route it's 9.7km to Guillena. The route is well waymarked the whole way. There are bridges or pedestrian stepping stones across any streams. This is the best route after rain or if you're cycling. (Although it isn't entirely immune from flooding.)

Following the old left route it's 9.5km to Guillena. There's a stream you need to ford which may be difficult after rain. The local Amigos put a steel beam across the stream just downstream of the ford, however it won't be safe to use if the water is flowing quickly. Fortunately there is an alternative route which branches left 380m before the stream (sometimes there is a temporary signpost here but since it's the only possible left turn on a long straight road it would be hard to miss). Follow this road passing a farmhouse on your right then passing under the motorway, veer left and right to join a main road. Here you turn right and follow the road (veering right) all the way to Guillena. This detour adds about 3km to the day's walk (better than a muddy drenching or worse!)

Guillena to Castilblanco de los Arroyos: 18.2km
Ascent: 469m Descent: -158m

Leaving town continue past the municipal albergue on Avenida de la Vega and then first right down a road to a ford which you cross (if the water's too high there's a bridge to your left) and then up the slope to the right then veering left, then 1.5km to a roundabout where you veer left through an industrial area and eventually into open country.

Just before Castilblanco the Camino veers left at a roundabout and follows Avenida España through town. Continue straight at this roundabout for the municipal albergue.

Castilblanco de los Arroyos to Almadén de la Plata: 28.5km
Ascent: 616m Descent: -480m

You can either follow the Camino or the main road through Castilblanco, they both end up in the same place. The Camino then continues north along the main road towards Almadén. This road isn't usually busy.

There are no facilities of any sort on this stage and you should not be wandering out of Castilblanco without enough food and water to see you through to the end.

Continue on the road (SE-5405) for 9km until you veer right on to a recently constructed walking path which continues parallel to the road for 7km to Finca el Berrocal where you arrive at the entrance into the Parque Natural Sierra Norte. From here it's unpaved paths to Almadén. If the main gate is closed there's another pedestrian gate to the right which may be open (it is not visible from the road). Keep some high-energy food or drink in reserve for the last couple of kilometres where there's a steep hill which ascends abruptly about 100m. Alternatively you can follow the road all the way to Almadén, it's slightly longer but an easier climb.

Almadén de la Plata to El Real de la Jara: 13.9km
Ascent: 356m Descent: -342m

The Camino is abundantly (if not always clearly) signposted through Almadén with signs and yellow arrows. If in doubt when leaving town aim for the bull ring on the hill to the north, the Camino passes it to its left.

El Real de la Jara to Monesterio: 20.0km
Ascent: 563m Descent: -278m

1.3km you cross a stream which marks the border with the Autonomous Community of Extremadura.

10.4km from the stream to the A-66 motorway, where there is a 24 hour service station, shop with a good selection of regional products, café, ATM. In the same place is Hotel Leo with luxurious singles from 50€, café / restaurant. Tel 924 517 048.

Be careful crossing the various roads around the motorway. Yellow arrows are a bit scarce here, at the roundabout take the road under the motorway signposted Monesterio.

Monesterio to Calzadilla de los Barros: 27.2km
Ascent: 393m Descent: -587m

Some misleading waymarkings on this stretch - follow the yellow arrows in preference to any 'official' markings (ie. the metal boxes), however there are places where the yellow arrows are scarce in which case you'll have to rely on the metal boxes. If you can't find any markings remember that you need to head north towards Fuente de Cantos which is intermittently visible on the horizon way before you get there.

13.2km you’ll cross a river which can flood after heavy rain. If it’s impassible 2km back there is an unpaved lane to the left/south, follow this for 500m until it joins a minor road where you turn right. This road brings you to Fuente de Cantos.

From the river it’s 7.8km to Fuente de Cantos - currently no albergue but several other places to sleep.

Small shop and pharmacy near the church. Dia supermarket on Calle Carriceros, left of the Camino, and a Spar supermarket on Paseo de Extremadura, near the main road. Cafés and several banks and a post office on Calle Llerena (right at the church) and on Plaza Zubaran (at the top of Calle Llerena).

Restaurante El Gato, does a good pilgrim menu, continue straight up Calle Llerena to the main road and turn left. Restaurant Venta del Gato, which is on the opposite side of the main road, is also good. The owners are brothers.

El Zaguan de la Plata, at Calle Llerena 40, from the Camino turn right at the church. Unfortunately not currently operating as an albergue. Apartments for 2 to 6 persons, kitchen, laundry facilities. Variable pricing from 50€. Website www.elzaguandelaplata.es Tel 924 500 999 or 678 277 716

Hotel La Fábrica at Calle Real 117, after the church turn right on to Calle Carmelitas and continue straight, when you see the main road ahead of you it's on the left. It has been recommended. Singles about 29.20€, doubles 41.40€. Café / restaurant. Website www.hrlafabrica.com Tel 924 500 042

Hostal Vicenta, continue past El Zaguan de la Plata, at the square veer right on to Calle Isabel la Católica to the end then turn left. Singles 17€, doubles 26€. Café / restaurant. Old and a bit run down. Tel 611 617 641

Calzadilla de los Barros to Zafra: 18.3km
Ascent: 207m Descent: -255m

1.9km after Calzadilla, the Camino turns left, this route can be flooded after rain. There is an alternative left turn at the main road 500m after this one.

14.7km to Puebla de Sancho Pérez

Puebla de Sancho Pérez: Shops, cafés, banks, all on the Camino. However they take their siesta very seriously. Café Abadia, left at the church, is usually open. 

Hostal el Monte, has been recently recommended, it's on Calle San Antonio, signposted to the right 420m. Singles 22€, doubles 36€. They also have a restaurant which is also reported good. Tel 670 222 267 or 924 575 581

4km to Zafra.

Between here and Zafra there used to be two routes you could chose from however recently the right route (through the railway station) has been closed.

The Camino to Zafra goes along the side of a road for 2km before it forks left for a while and rejoins the main road near Albergue Van Gogh. (You can also ignore the left fork and continue along the road all the way.)

Zafra to Los Santos de Maimona: 4.4km
Ascent: 122m Descent: -101m

From the Amigos albergue the Camino runs straight up Avenida de la Estación, diagonally across Plaza España then down pedestrianised Calle Sevilla, to the centre of town at Plaza Grande, which it crosses on to Calle Tetuán before turning right on to Calle Conde de la Corte and then veering left and, close to the municipal albergue, right on to Calle Ancha then Calle San Francisco, straight across a roundabout towards a tower, la Torre de San Francisco, and from there into open country.

Los Santos de Maimona to Villafranca de los Barros: 15.3km
Ascent: 146m Descent: -266m

The Camino arrives in front of the church on Plaza España, and then passes to its left. Thanks to the local Amigos for their massive yellow arrows!

Albergue La Almazara closed at the end of 2023.

Villafranca de los Barros to Torremejía: 27.5km
Ascent: 144m Descent: -255m

Some dead-straight Roman road walking on this part.

If this stage is too long for you there is the option to detour to Almendralejo. To get there turn left on a good quality unpaved road about 1km after the beginning of the long straight stretch. Almendralejo has all facilities.

Good reports of Hotel Los Angeles, on Calle Macarena. Singles from 45€, doubles 55€. Website www.hlangelesalmendralejo.com Email reservas@hlangelesalmendralejo.com Tel 924 670 319

Good Menú del Día in Cafétería Andana, on Calle San Blas.

For a shorter route from here to Torremejía walk north along the main road, when you come to the motorway use the bridge to get to the other side and follow the unpaved road which runs parallel to the motorway on the right.

Torremejía to Mérida: 15.4km
Ascent: 94m Descent: -185m

The Camino continues on or near the main road for 6.6km north of Torremejía until a sign indicates to join a path on the right. From here it's a more-or-less straight run into Mérida.

Mérida to El Carrascalejo: 13.8km
Ascent: 215m Descent: -134m

6.1km to Proserpina, cafés (although usually nothing open in the morning).

Pass straight through a roundabout and take a left fork signposted as a cul-de-sac. Then follow a footpath which skirts the reservoir until it rejoins the road and continues north.

After Proserpina the Camino follows a small road for 4km until, just before the road turns right over a bridge (clearly marked with yellow arrows on a tree), it goes left on to a sandy lane. The Camino then continues on unpaved lanes until El Carrascalejo.

El Carrascalejo to Aljucén: 2.6km
Ascent: 40m Descent: -64m

Aljucén to Alcuéscar: 19.4km
Ascent: 304m Descent: -119m

Leaving Aljucén follow the main street (Calle Mayor) north for 330m until the Camino takes a right turn on to another road which it follows for 1km until it joins a bigger road to the left for 400m before turning right on to an unpaved lane.

14.1km from leaving the road to the right turnoff to the Basilica de Santa Lucía del Trampal.

If you're interested in architecture and historic sights you may enjoy the detour to the Basilica de Santa Lucía del Trampal. It's a 7th century church in Visigothic style, one of the few remaining. It's 4km off the Camino on a path to the right. From the basilica you can continue 4.5km along quiet roads to Alcuéscar.

If your destination is Albergue Turistico Los Olivos then 700m past the turnoff for the Basilica you'll see a sign pointing LEFT towards Puerto de la Herrerias, follow this and it brings you there in 1.3km. At this point the Camino goes RIGHT bringing you directly to Alcuéscar in 2.8km.

Alcuéscar to Aldea del Cano: 15.0km
Ascent: 68m Descent: -125m

The Camino turns sharp left just after the monastery.

8km to Casas de Don Antonio, the Camino bypasses the village.

Casas de Don Antonio. There's a café which also sells bread, in the Centro Social (behind the Ayuntamiento), and a pharmacy nearby.

7km to Aldea del Cano, the Camino bypasses the village which is a little to the right.

Aldea del Cano to Valdesalor: 11.4km
Ascent: 96m Descent: -101m

Valdesalor to Cáceres: 11.6km
Ascent: 167m Descent: -111m

From Valdesalor continue north on the right side of the main road. Waymarking isn't great here but basically, the Camino meanders parallel to this road for 5.4km then it heads off into open country before arriving into the suburbs of Cáceres.

Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres: 12.3km
Ascent: 164m Descent: -242m

The Camino turns right at Plaza San Francisco and enters the walled old city from the east. At the cathedral it turns sharp right. If you want to go to Plaza Mayor and the part of the city with cafés, shops, etc., then continue straight here along Calle Arco de la Estrella. After the cathedral the Camino leaves the old city on to Plazuela de Santiago where we pass Iglesia de Santiago and veer left and continues north out of the city along Calle de Zapataría, passing to the left of the bullring, from where you can easily pick up the waymarkings.

Between here and Casar de Cáceres the Camino has been rerouted to follow a slightly longer route which avoids the busy main road. Watch out for where it branches left off of Avenida de las Lavanderas just before where the dual carriageway ends.

Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral: 33.0km
Ascent: 520m Descent: -531m

Continue north along the main street to leave town. After 1.9km, where there's a small round building with a pointed roof, take the right fork.

Restrictions due to AVE works are now finished so the Camino has returned to its old route down to the reservoir. The track here is in use by regional trains, but not yet high-speed ones.

21km to the turnoff for the albergue at Embalse de Alcántara. If you're continuing to Cañaveral, immediately after the second bridge leave the road and follow a steep path up to the right. To get to the albergue at Embalse de Alcántara stay on the road. This albergue has been closed since 2021, as of late 2024 there is no news of when it will reopening. Please see updates.

The guest house on the main road, Alcántara, Pesca, Evasión, has single rooms for 25€ and doubles for 40€, breakfast included. However, they prefer dealing with groups and may be reluctant to open for individuals. Tel 927 090 510. Website www.alcantarapescaevasion.com

ALTERNATIVE: From Embalse you can continue on the road (N-630) all the way to Cañaveral (slightly shorter).

Cañaveral to Grimaldo: 8.0km
Ascent: 213m Descent: -146m

There is some confusion about the route immediately after Cañaveral. Follow the main road north until you see yellow arrows directing you on to a lane on the left. (There are signs for other hiking routes around here 'Caminos Naturales' - do not be tempted to follow them!) This ascends gently at first and then more steeply before descending to a road which you cross and veer right to pass through the car park of a strip joint, El Puerto (does not give pilgrim discounts and in any case doesn’t open until long after your bedtime), then veering left to follow the yellow arrows on a path through a wood.

Over the following stages there are several villages which are described as (turnoff). These are villages which have a pilgrim albergue but which are not on the actual route of the Camino. The distances given is the distance to the point on the Camino where you turn off to get to the village in question, not the actual distance to the village. The distance of the village from the Camino is given in the route description (see below for Grimaldo). Getting back to the Camino from one of these villages is described in the detailed information for the village.

The village of Grimaldo is 650m off the Camino to the right at an abundantly signposted junction.

Grimaldo to Ríolobos: 7.8km
Ascent: 109m Descent: -110m

The village of Ríolobos is 4km off the Camino to the left. The place where your turn off is clearly signposted.

Ríolobos to Galisteo: 11.4km
Ascent: 131m Descent: -273m

4km after the turnoff for Ríolobos you cross a canal and then turn right on to a road which you follow for a short distance until the Camino goes left on to a lane.

5.7km to the turnoff for San Gil. The village of San Gil is 2.4km off the Camino, it has a shop, cafés and a pharmacy. From San Gil you can continue on an alternative route to Carcaboso completely bypassing Galisteo. Like the other route it's all road walking.

San Gil. Bar Las Pizarras does good tapas and meals, it is on the main road at the end of the village. San Gil also has a municipal albergue which has been closed since before Covid.

Galisteo to Carcaboso: 11.0km
Ascent: 105m Descent: -117m

From Cafétería Las Picotas walk up the hill towards the walled town and continue walking with the town walls to your right to the other side of the walled town from where you should be able to pick up the waymarkings which lead steeply downhill and across an old bridge over the Río Jerte, straight through a roundabout, under the motorway and then right at another roundabout to follow the paved road north towards Carcaboso.

6km Aldehuala del Jerte. Café, shops.

House to rent for up to 7 people, La Teja del Jerte, at Calle Constitución 16. Information and reservations from their website atejadeljerte.com Tel 635 287 650

Carcaboso to Oliva de Plasencia: 12.0km
Ascent: 267m Descent: -122m

Walking Notes Carcaboso to Aldeanueva del Camino

Between Carcaboso and Aldeanueva del Camino things are a bit confusing because the available accommodation is all off the Camino. Your options, if you start from Carcaboso, are basically the following: (1) Walk 18.6km to Oliva de Plasencia where there is an albergue and a guest house. (2) Walk 18.2km to Cáparra and arrange to be picked up there by one or other of the hotels. (3) Walk to Cáparra then follow the road to Hostal El Avión for a total of 23.4km. (4) Walk through Cáparra and then take the road to Hostal Asturias or Hotel Jarilla for a total of 28.7km. (5) Walk to Aldeanueva in one day in 38.3km.

For a visual representation of the options got to www.viadelaplataguide.net and click on Route Charts.

The Vía Verde

There is now a Vía Verde (combined cycling and walking track built along the route of an old train line) which starts in Plasencia and finishes past Puerto de Béjar. For some of its length it runs parallel to the Camino. It passes beside Hostal el Avión, Hostal Asturia and Hotel Jarilla, then close to Aldeanueva del Camino before taking a detour around Hervás (a beautiful town with one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Spain, scroll down for the albergue) and continues from there to Baños de Montemayor and Puente de Béjar (important to note, it doesn't actually go through any of those towns, it passes close to them). If you stay in one of the off-Camino hotels the Vía Verde can be a handy way to rejoin the Camino, without involving any backtracking. It's also a good alternative if it's been raining a lot.

The Vía Verde is literally right beside Hostal El Avión. To get to it from Hostal Asturia, cross the road and walk through the enormous lorry park and pass to the left of some buildings. To get to it from Hotel Jarilla, from the rear of the hotel cross about 100m of open ground.

For an overview of the Vía Verde in relation to the Camino see the chart on page ? and Map ?.

Leaving Carcaboso pay careful attention to waymarkings at the various road junctions. 1.3km from the village there is a point where previously there were two routes which divided here for about 2km. Nowadays the Camino continues straight at this point.

12km to Dehesa Ventaquemada, turnoff for Oliva de Placencia

The village of Oliva de Plasencia is 6.6km off the Camino to the right along a sometimes busy road.

Oliva de Plasencia to Aldeanueva del Camino: 26.3km
Ascent: 398m Descent: -289m

6.2km to Cáparra Roman City.

At the visitors centre in Cáparra there are public toilets and vending machines for snacks and drinks (you will need coins and the building isn't always open). The visitors centre is 300m from the Camino, turn right at the arch itself or shortly after it.

Hostal El Avión is in Villar de Plasencia, 5.2km off the Camino from Cáparra along a quiet road (CC-11.2). They may provide a pick-up service from Cáparra. Singles 40€, doubles 60€. Tel 652 779 448. To get back to the Camino from Hostal El Avión either retrace your steps back to Cáparra or walk north along the Vía Verde.

On the Camino after Cáparra there are several rivers which you cross using stepping-stones and which may be extremely difficult to cross during periods of wet weather. Please ask advice locally and don't attempt dangerous river crossings - especially if you're on your own. If it has been raining a lot your best bet may be to go to Oliva de Plasencia and follow the minor road north from there until Hostal El Avión and follow the Vía Verde from there.

8.2km after Cáparra, turn off for Hostal Asturias and Hotel Jarilla. Where the Camino runs along the side of a straight road you'll see yellow writing pointing right. Both hotels are 2.3km from this point, on the other side of the motorway.

Hotel Jarilla, across the road to your left. Singles 30€, doubles 50€. Café / restaurant with good food. Website www.hoteljarilla.com Tel 927 477 040

Hostal Asturias has singles 32€, doubles 60€, a café / restaurant. They may pick up from Cáparra on request. Under new management. Tel 927 477 057 or 663 968 927

NOTE: there is a point on the Vía Verde 2km north of Hotel Jarilla where it intercepts with a path which brings you straight back to the Camino before Aldeanueva.

After the turnoff for Hostal Asturias / Hotel Jarilla, in 4.9km you will pass underneath the motorway then immediately see signs pointing left to ford a river. This river is often too big to ford, in which case you should cross the river on the bridge on your right and continue on the road until you rejoin the Camino. You will pass under the motorway three more times before Aldeaneuva.

Private (20, 30€ with breakfast) Albergue Vía de la Plata, in the old train station in Hervás, so quite a distance off the Camino but bang on the Vía Verde. Private rooms. Website www.albergueviadelaplata.com Tel 621 129 521

PLEASE NOTE: the hotels which pick pilgrims up from the Camino do so as a courtesy to pilgrims, they are not in any way obliged to bring you back to the Camino the next morning.

Aldeanueva del Camino to Baños de Montemayor: 9.5km
Ascent: 233m Descent: -47m

Follow the Camino north through the village to where it joins the main road, at a roundabout (motorway service station café open 24h, to your left), cross over the motorway and veer left. The Camino to Baños is along the side of the road, although there are some places where you can walk a little off the road. About 2km out there's a bollard which urges you to veer right on to a lane, ignore it and stay on the road.

5.1km café.

Baños de Montemayor to Puente de Béjar: 3.1km
Ascent: 199m Descent: -18m

Turn sharp left after the Ayuntamiento and follow the Camino as it winds its way through the village before joining the Roman road up the side of the valley towards the pass.

3km with a 200m ascent to Puerto de Béjar. Entering Castilla y León. Shortly after comes Peñacaballera, café and a petrol station with a small shop.

Shortly after the petrol station the Camino turns left away from the road. The pilgrim albergue at Puente de Béjar is to the right at this point.

Puente de Béjar to Calzada de Béjar: 9.3km
Ascent: 207m Descent: -311m

Beautiful walking through rolling hills to...

Calzada de Béjar to Valverde de Valdelacasa: 8.9km
Ascent: 78m Descent: -64m

Valverde de Valdelacasa to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra: 11.8km
Ascent: 251m Descent: -103m

3.6km to Valdecasa, café which does food in the Centro de Día, turn right at the main road, it's about 300m on the right.

2km after Valdecasa there is a junction with a lot of confusing yellow arrows. Basically you have two options, either continue on the road or take the lane which goes left at a right angle, this seems to be the 'official' Camino. Both routes bring you to Fuenteroble in approximately the same distance.

RIGHT ROUTE: Fuenterroble de Salvatierra to Pedrosillo de los Aires: 18.4km
Ascent: 271m Descent: -265m
LEFT ROUTE: Fuenterroble de Salvatierra to San Pedro de Rozados: 28.3km
Ascent: 452m Descent: -428m

There are two possible routes here. They divide 11.8km after Fuenterroble at a gate / cattle grid with a sign which says Dueña de Abajo. The two routes rejoin in the village of Morille.

The RIGHT ROUTE passes through Pedrosillo (albergue, cafés, shop) and has a total distance (Fuenterroble to Morille) of 29.8km.

The LEFT ROUTE passes through San Pedro de Rozados (albergue, café) and has a total distance (Fuenterroble to Morille) of 32km.

THE RIGHT ROUTE

From where the routes divide to Pedrosilla is 6.5km.

Pedrosillo de los Aires to Morille: 11.5km
Ascent: 172m Descent: -192m

5.2km to Monterrubio de la Sierra.

6.3km to Morille.

THE LEFT ROUTE

From where the routes divide to San Pedro is 16.3km.

Walk uphill along an unpaved path, passing to the right of the windmills on the top of Pico de la Dueña (1,145m, highest point on the Camino so far). Then steeply downhill on another rough path before joining a road.

San Pedro de Rozados is a little off the Camino to the left. Follow the road if you wish to continue to Morille.

San Pedro de Rozados to Morille: 3.9km
Ascent: 18m Descent: -57m

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN MORILLE

Morille to Salamanca: 19.6km
Ascent: 235m Descent: -372m

10km to Miranda de Azán, which is 250m to the right of the Camino. Cafés which all open about 10:00. However, no pilgrim albergue (despite the rumours!)

Approaching Salamanca you'll pass under a road on to an urban street, past a roundabout and into a park where you turn right and walk with a stream on your left. You will see a yellow arrow telling you to cross a footbridge to the right, ignore it and continue to follow other yellow arrows with the stream on your left through a tunnel under a railway line, past a petrol station and straight along a street until you see the Roman bridge over the river Duero which you'll cross to the city proper.

9.5km to Salamanca

Once over the bridge, cross the road and continue right uphill to the point where the right turn to the municipal albergue is indicated with a metal Camino sign set into the ground with the letter 'A' for 'Albergue'.

Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel: 15.9km
Ascent: 191m Descent: -194m

Leaving Salamanca there are almost no waymarkings of any description. Luckily it's mostly straight all the way. From Plaza Mayor continue north along Calle de Zamora, then straight over a roundabout on to Paseo Torres Vilarroel, where there's a small shop / bakery that opens at 07:00, continuing straight to another roundabout where you veer left on to Avenida de Borgoña, then straight through another roundabout by a large Carrefour supermarket. Here the Camino crosses to the right side of the road and (just when you've abandoned all hope) Camino waymarkings appear again!

7km to Aldeaseca de la Almuña. Café Bar La Pedania, turn left at a small park with a fountain (Plaza Mayor) and walk 100m. Small supermarket a little further along the Camino on the right.

Between here and Castellanos de Villiquera there are two routes. For the right (old) route continue straight and cross to the right side of the main road just after the village, and then cross it again after 2.8km. For the left (new) route turn left at Plaza Mayor (a small park with a fountain) and continue more-or-less straight out of the village. Don't miss the sharp right turn after 1.5km. The left route is a bit more scenic. Both routes are about the same length.

4.8km to Castellanos de Villiquera, café, shop by the church, pharmacy.

Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de Tierra del Vino: 20.2km
Ascent: 251m Descent: -209m

5.2km cross under the motorway. After rain it may be necessary to follow a short detour to avoid getting your feet wet. It's clearly waymarked.

El Cubo de Tierra del Vino to Villanueva de Campeán: 13.6km
Ascent: 127m Descent: -206m

Continue down El Cubo's main street, veer right at the church, cross the river and then take a left.

Villanueva de Campeán to Zamora: 18.4km
Ascent: 123m Descent: -246m

4km to the turnoff for San Marcial, straight ahead where the Camino turns sharp right, 1km off the Camino. In San Marcial Bar el Cruce, on the main road, does food, open 10:00, and there's a small supermarket. From San Marcial you can rejoin the Camino by following the main road north for 1.8km. The detour works out at about the same distance as following the Camino.

100m before where the Camino joins the main road is the right turn for El Perdigón, 1km off the Camino, where Hostal Rural El Perdigón has been recommended. Website www.hotelruralelperdigon.com Tel 679 495 499

Zamora to Montamarta: 19.2km
Ascent: 242m Descent: -189m

The Camino turns left and crosses Plaza Mayor diagonally and then goes down Calle de las Costanillas, veering left at the bottom on to Calle de la Feria then it continues straight across a roundabout. From there it's straight ahead on to Calle Morana then veering left on to Carretera Hiniesta. Then continue straight through another roundabout and walk on the right until the Camino leaves the road and continues on a lane. NB. Another Camino goes west from here towards Portugal, a signpost marks the spot where the paths divide, be careful not to get the routes confused.

7km to Roales del Pan, a small Coviran supermarket. The municipal albergue here is closed, no plans to reopen it. After Roales you will begin to encounter the northern AVE route. A bridge has been built over the new tracks so no special detours are needed.

Montamarta to Fontanillas de Castro: 12.6km
Ascent: 153m Descent: -125m

When the reservoir is in flood you'll have to cross the road bridge and turn left towards a small church.

4.1km the Camino turns sharp right, crosses the motorway and then continues north. Continue straight here if you wish to follow the N-631 which will bring you directly to Tábara in approximately 25km, bypassing Fontanillas, Riego and Granja, road-side walking with heavy traffic including HGVs.

Fontanillas de Castro to Granja de Moreruela: 10.3km
Ascent: 83m Descent: -90m

3.7km to Riego del Camino

Café La Biblioteca on Calle las Escuelas, not open in the morning and closed Wednesdays.

6.7km to Granja de Moreruela

Granja de Moreruela to Tábara: 25.3km
Ascent: 316m Descent: -291m

Behind the church is a sign which marks the point where the Camino Sanabrés divides left from the Vía de la Plata to follow a course through southern Galicia to Santiago.

The Camino Sanabrés

6.7km from Granja you will cross a bridge called Puente Quintos over the river Esla. Immediately after the bridge the Camino turns left off the road and follows the river for 1.1km before turning right just before the brow of a hill (where there is a good view of the river to the south). It then passes to the left of a ruined farmhouse and continues on unpaved roads to Faramontanos (care required on some parts near the river). After the bridge it is also possible to walk on the (fairly quiet) road all the way to Faramontanos.

11.5km from the bridge to Faramontanos de Tábara, shop, cafés and a pharmacy, all on or near the Camino. Bar Nemesio, on the Camino, does food.

The albergue La Casa Azul y Amarilla in Faramontanos only opens in summer. Donativo, 4 places. Telephone 692 643 223. Call ahead to check availability.

6.8km to Tábara. Approaching and leaving Tábara you will cross the AVE (high-speed train) tracks, however this does not interfere with the Camino route.

The Camino doesn't actually enter Tábara. Just before you arrive in Tábara you'll see arrows pointing right and the church up to your left. The arrows pointing right are the Camino continuing after Tábara. If you want to go to the village, head for the church.

RIGHT ROUTE: Tábara to Santa Marta de Tera: 23.0km
Ascent: 266m Descent: -266m
LEFT ROUTE: Tábara to Villanueva de las Peras: 14.0km
Ascent: 167m Descent: -156m

10.2km after Tábara you have the choice of two routes. The right route goes through Bercianos de Valverde. The left route goes through Villanueva de las Peras. The distances given for both routes are from divide to rejoin.

RIGHT ROUTE 5.2km...

4.3km to Bercianos de Valverde from the point where the routes divide, no facilities. From here to Santa Croya de Tera is 8.4km.

LEFT ROUTE 5.6km...

3.8km to Villanueva de las Peras from the point where the routes divide.

Villanueva de las Peras to Santa Marta de Tera: 9.4km
Ascent: 86m Descent: -96m

8.4km to Santa Croya de Tera from Villanueva de las Peras.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN BEFORE SANTA CROYA DE TERA

Santa Croya de Tera, small supermarket closed Saturday afternoon and Sunday, and a café. If you need to shop do it here, there is no shop in Santa Marta de Tera.

1km to Santa Marta de Tera. The Camino goes immediately left after crossing the bridge (although the yellow arrows had been repainted to send pilgrims through the village).

Santa Marta de Tera to Calzadilla de Tera: 11.1km
Ascent: 81m Descent: -63m

Since the closure of Casa Anita in Santa Croya de Tera, this has turned into an accommodation bottleneck with the albergue often filling up early in the day. You would be wise to get here early or to have a Plan B. An alternative is to walk west along the main road (N-525) for 5km to Camarzana de Tera where there are cafés, a shop, a bank, a pharmacy and two accommodation options.

On the main road in Camarzana on the right, Hotel Juan Manuel has a warm welcome and singles from 40€, doubles 55€. They also have a good restaurant. Website www.hoteljuanmanuel.es Tel 980 650 897

Regato Verde is 800m north of Camarzana along ZA-P-2556, which branches right off the main street 100m after Hotel Juan Manuel. Singles from 30€, doubles 50€. Website: www.regatoverde.com Tel 681 063 030 Open 15:00

There are cafés, shops and a pharmacy nearby and you can rejoin the Camino in about 2km by walking west along the N-525 and turning left on to the ZA-105. This detour adds about 1.5km of extra walking.

5.8km after Santa Marta the Camino comes to a main road at a gravel quarry. Turn left here and cross the bridge over the Río Tera. The Camino to Calzadilla continues to the right after the bridge. Shortly before Calzadilla there is a set of confusing arrows pointing to the right. Ignore them and continue straight over the canal until you reach a paved road.

Calzadilla de Tera to Villar de Farfón: 9.8km
Ascent: 132m Descent: -81m

Be careful because there is some confusing waymarking in this area. You should follow the canal to Olleros. Whichever arrows you find in Calzadilla should being you to this canal.

1.9km to Olleros de Tera

Café Bar La Trucha, with unpredictable opening hours.

Guest house Casa Julia, walk past the church and cross the main road on to Calle Otero, then right on to Calle de las Eras, it's at the top on the left. Kitchen with groceries for sale. Breakfast. Singles 25€, doubles40€, 10€ more in winter to pay for heating. Tel 660 088 620

Continue through the village, cross a main road on to another road, pass to the left of a concrete structure and walk towards a church 1.4km in the distance. From this church you'll walk through open country for 2.6km before arriving at a dam, Embalse de Agavanzal. Approaching the dam there is a sign on the road indicating bicycles to go left (BICIS), this is the recommended route as of September 2024 because the other route is overgrown.

Cross the dam and turn immediately left.

Villar de Farfón to Rionegro del Puente: 6.1km
Ascent: 77m Descent: -82m

Rionegro del Puente to Mombuey: 9.0km
Ascent: 132m Descent: -31m

3.6km, roadside café, El Empalme, 260m along a minor road to the left of the Camino, open from 09:00, closed Mondays.

Mombuey to Asturianos: 16.9km
Ascent: 266m Descent: -193m

After Mombuey the Camino follows close to the main road for 2.2km before crossing the motorway. Watch out for rabbits and deer.

5km from Mombuey to Valdemerilla.

3.5km to Cernadilla. This municipal albergue is closed.

1.9km to San Salvador de Palazuelo. This municipal albergue is closed.

3.4km Entrepeñas

Azul Sanabria, to the left of the Camino. Can accommodate groups of three: one person 40€, two persons 50€, three persons 60€. The same people own nearby Las Peñas del Corredor with singles 30€, doubles 45€. Kitchen. Open March to November. Tel 676 653 466

Casa Rural el Cuco, at the end of Entrepeñas on the right, has doubles from 50€. Evening meal and breakfast. Website www.casaelcuco.es Tel 664 245 298 or 679 511 629

Be careful not to miss the left turn leaving Entrepeñas.

Asturianos to Puebla de Sanabria: 14.8km
Ascent: 200m Descent: -261m

Off-road sections between Asturianos and Puebla de Sanabria may be muddy and flooded after rain.

3.4km to Palacios de Sanabria, cafés and pharmacy. Bar Mirador, on the main road, is usually open for breakfast. To rejoin the Camino cross the main road from Bar Mirador and veer left uphill.

2.6km to Remesal.

2.9km to Otero de Sanabria.

2.5km to Triufé.

3.5km to Puebla de Sanabria.

Puebla de Sanabria to Requejo de Sanabria: 12.3km
Ascent: 214m Descent: -119m

The Camino through Puebla follows the main road and turns right immediately after crossing the bridge. Follow this road around the old town until it crosses another bridge, now continue straight for 1km until the Camino turns abruptly left and continues on a path beside a river for 2.5km before rejoining the main road. If this path is flooded following the road (N-525) all the way is a good alternative.

9.8km to Terroso from Puebla de Sanabria. This village lies on a long (but scenic) meander which can be avoided by following the road.

Requejo de Sanabria to Lubián: 17.9km
Ascent: 595m Descent: -566m

The construction of the high-speed train from Madrid to Galicia is completed and the long years of detours to the route of the Camino in this area are finished. The good news is that the new route is off-road all the way to Padornelo. The bad news is that it's a bit longer than if you follow the road (N-525).

NOTE: There are several possible routes around here. The one described below is what I walked in summer 2023, it is well waymarked and should be passable and safe in all weathers. The route I had walked a year earlier was blocked by a fence in 2023 (although the fence was easy to climb). There is also the historical route which was blocked by a high security fence on one side and a dangerous fast flowing river which is only passable in very dry weather.

Follow the Camino through Requejo and continue straight past the cemetery and then continue straight into the woods. After 4.3km you will come to a clearing where the AVE passes to your left on a viaduct. Veer right uphill on an unpaved road, after 400m turn sharp right (almost doubling back on yourself) up a construction road which zigzags its way up to beside the main road in 2.6km.

Continue with the main road to your right. You will pass underneath several flyovers and zigzag several times before reaching the pass at A Canda in 2.7km, where there is a monument (Beware of some contradictory signs here indicating an alternative route). The altitude here is 1,365m and it is the highest point of the Camino Sanabrés (and the entire Camino from Seville to Santiago). From the monument continue downhill to cross the motorway again. Then follow the road into Padornelo.

1.5km to Padornelo from the pass. Padornelo has a café, Bar Silva.

400m after Padornelo, Hotel Padornelo has a café which does good tapas, and a good restaurant. Singles 35€, doubles 45€, triples 55€. Website www.hotelpadornelo.com Tel 652 077 319

Follow the main road after Padornelo for 1.6km to where you veer right before a bridge, now walk 600m until on the left you see a path leading downhill. This brings you to Aciberos after 700m. Parts of this path are prone to flooding, so after rain it may be better to remain on the main road for another 700m and follow the road down to Aciberos.

3.4km from Aciberos to Lubián.

Lubián to A Gudiña: 24.6km
Ascent: 743m Descent: -786m

From the turnoff to the Santuario de La Tuiza (signposted), follow the paved road down to the bridge, past the recreation / sports area, and pass under the motorway. The Camino continues past the Sanctuary and then the 320m climb to Portela de la Canda begins.

Parts of this stretch can be flooded after rain. It is possible to walk on the road: leaving Lubián follow the ZA-106 west for about 9km until it intersects with the Camino at Portela de la Canda, a few hundred metres after where the motorway enters a tunnel. Due to the meandering routes the road follows walking on the ZA-106 to this point would be about 9km compared to 6.7km on the Camino.

6.9km from Lubián to the pass, Portela de la Canda, at altitude 1,260m.

Welcome to Galicia!

1.5km from the pass to A Canda.

3.3km to Vilavella

Vilavella has two cafés, both a little off the Camino, the food in Bar ON has been recommended, closed Mondays. Hostal Porta Galega closed in early 2024.

3.5km to O Pereiro.

About 700m off the Camino to the north of O Pereiro on the main road is Finca Cazador with a hotel and restaurant. Singles from about 26€, doubles 38€. Tel 988 425 596 or book on their website fincacazador.es Closed Friday.

5.2km to O Cañizo.

4km to...

A Gudiña to Campobecerros: 20.3km
Ascent: 554m Descent: -636m

The Camino veers right off the main road on to Rúa Maior. After about 200m is the point where the Laza (right) and Verín (left) routes divide. Only the Laza route is described here. Very few people walk the Verín which is considerably longer.

7.7km to A Venda Da Teresa.

2.3km to A Venda Da Capela.

3.2km to A Venda Do Bolaño.

A steep 248m descent to Campobecerros.

Campobecerros to As Eiras: 8.4km
Ascent: 230m Descent: -362m

3.1km to Portocamba.

As Eiras to Laza: 6.1km
Ascent: 137m Descent: -426m

Spectacular scenery, to Laza (if it isn't foggy and rainy).

Laza to Alberguería: 12.0km
Ascent: 563m Descent: -142m

3.4km along a quite road to Soutelo Verde

3km to Tamicelas. Then a steep 380m ascent to Alberguería.

Alberguería to Vilar de Barrio: 7.5km
Ascent: 127m Descent: -358m

Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía: 14.2km
Ascent: 253m Descent: -379m

2.3km to Bóveda. Café a little off the Camino to the left.

800m to Vilar de Gomareite, café.

5.4km to Bobadela.

1.2km to Padroso.

Caution is advised on the final descent to Xunqueira de Ambía which can be slippery when wet.

Xunqueira de Ambía to Ourense: 22.1km
Ascent: 288m Descent: -696m

The Camino follows the winding road through the village, past the church and then turns right following the signpost for A Pousa. Then after about 40m it veers left down a side road.

3.1km to A Pousa, café, supermarket.

4.3km to Ousende.

800m to Penelas, café, shop.

2.2km to Venda do Rio.

500m to Pereiras, café.

2.2km to A Castellana, café. This is where the suburbs of Ourense begin. At the beginning of the industrial zone are some information boards for pilgrims with maps. From here it's unpleasant suburban walking to the city centre.

2.2km to Reboredo, at the right turn on to Estrada ao Polígono, arrows urge you to go right up a hill on a narrow lane, you can either follow them or continue straight on Estrada ao Polígono. Soon afterwards, at a roundabout, you need to go left on to a minor road, Rúa do Cruceiro, rather than following the dangerous main road.

2.8km to Seixalbo, café.

2.5km to the second roundabout where the Camino veers left down Avenida de Zamora (2nd exit). Follow the Camino for the Xunta Albergue, for Grelo Albergue take Rúa Nosa Señora da Sainza (1st exit).

RIGHT ROUTE: Ourense to Cea: 22.5km
Ascent: 694m Descent: -300m
LEFT ROUTE: Ourense to Cea: 21.6km
Ascent: 772m Descent: -379m

After crossing the bridge, 300m up the hill the Camino divides, the right route turns on to Avenida de Santiago, while the left route continues straight towards the (northern) railway station, visible up the hill. Both routes involve a steep climb to get out of the valley of the River Miño.

Statistically both routes are very similar. The right route is 22.5km with total ascent 694m and total descent 300m, the left is 21.6km with total ascent 772m and total descent 379m. Calculated using the Munter method there’s only a 2 minutes difference in estimated walking time. So there’s no clear easier route. I’ve walked both in different weather conditions so when people asked me which one I recommend I tell them: dry weather right route, wet weather left. This is based on the left route having more road walking and being less prone to flooding. But, to be clear, in wet weather you will get your feet wet whichever way you go.

RIGHT ROUTE 22.5km

Turn right on to Avenida de Santiago which you follow for 700m, walking on the RIGHT otherwise you'll miss the waymarkings, until the Camino veers on to a minor road to the right. After a short while you'll cross the main road again and continue steeply uphill. You'll cross another road and then there's a steep 250m climb over 2km.

12.3km from Ourense to Tamallancos, cafés.

1.1km to Bouzas, café.

5.1km to Viduedo, café, shop.

El Alojamiento Pazos is in the village of Pazos. To get there take a right turn on to a small road where the Camino crosses it 600m after Viduedo. From the Camino it's 550m. Doubles 40€, triples 60€. Including breakfast. If you wish to stay two nights they provide a shuttle service to and from Castro Dozón. Tel 619 445 640

2km to Casas Novas...

LEFT ROUTE 21.6km

Continue straight up the hill, walking on the right, when you see the railway station (station café opens 05:00) in front of you veer left and pass in front of it on to Rúa Eulogio Gómez Franqueira, from where you basically follow the yellow arrows on the right side of the street, along the side of a busy main road for 2.8km to Quintela, where, opposite Bodegas Arnoya, you take the smaller road which branches right. You follow this for 700m until, outside the showrooms of Gómez y Crespo (farm machinery manufacturing), where the road goes right, you continue straight. You pass under the new train viaduct to the tunnel under the old train tracks, push the button to get pedestrian priority and (with your torch lit, just in case some driver ignores the traffic lights) pass through the tunnel. After the tunnel the climb begins, 290m ascent over 2.2km.

11.8km from Ourense to Cima de Vila.

3.5km to Ponte Mandras, café a little after the village.

4.3km to Casas Novas...

LEFT AND RIGHT ROUTES REJOIN IN CASAS NOVAS

Casas Novas, from here it's 2km to Cea.

RIGHT ROUTE: Cea to Oseira: 8.6km
Ascent: 223m Descent: -101m
LEFT ROUTE: Cea to Piñor: 5.1km
Ascent: 170m Descent: -114m

There are two routes between Cea and Castro Dozón. The right route is the 'official' one and passes through Oseira. The left route is slightly shorter.

RIGHT ROUTE 19km

From Praza Maior go north on to Rúa da Praza Maior and cross the main road on to Rúa de Lodairo (past the Bread Monument) and follow the signs.

6km through open country to Pielas. Café, O Toxo, reported good.

Oseira to A Laxe: 29.4km
Ascent: 876m Descent: -1064m

The walk to Castro Dozón begins with a 1.4km 170m steep climb over rocky ground.

6.4km to A Gouxa, café - not open mornings.

4km to Castro Dozón

LEFT ROUTE 14.6km

From Praza Maior go north on to Rúa da Praza Maior and then at the main road turn left, walk for 140m then go right following the signs that say Oseira 9, pass alongside the Community Centre / Edificio Multiusos and follow the yellow arrows.

1.8km to Cotelas, cafés.

In Cotelas, on the Camino on the right, guest house O Refugio with en suite rooms, singles 20€ and doubles 30€. Evening meals and breakfast in their café, open from 07:00. Tel 606 709 167

Guest house Casa Carmen, 700m off the Camino to the right just after O Refugio. Singles from 32€, doubles 65€. Kitchen, outdoor swimming pool. Website: www.casacarmenfreas.com Tel 672 263 630

Piñor to A Laxe: 28.5km
Ascent: 754m Descent: -860m

1.1km to Arenteiro, café.

1.2km to O Reino.

Restaurante Hostal Ateneo, turn left at O Reino and follow the OU-154 for 500m until the 2nd turn right which brings you down to the main road. Turn left onto the main road, it's 370m from here. Café / restaurant. Singles 20€, doubles 40€. Please call to reserve. Tel 988 403 203

7.1km to Castro Dozón. Care is necessary on this part because of faded and missing waymarkings.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN CASTRO DOZÓN

Castro Dozón, the municipal albergue here is closed and the building is now being used as a training centre for landscape gardeners.

Cafés. Small Coviran supermarket behind Bar Cantón opposite the park. Pharmacy on the main road just south of the village. Basic food also from the petrol station on the Oseira variant 150m south of the village.

Guest House Casa Dozón/Bubela, on the main road near the pharmacy. 30€ per person with breakfast. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Website www.casabubeladozon.com Tel 620 542 503

From Castro Dozón it's 19km to A Laxe

4.6km north of Castro Dozón the Camino veers left away from the main road on to a minor one.

1.5km to Puxallos.

6.8km to Estación de Lalín, cafés, guest houses.

A Taberna da Vento, just past the roundabout, first exit, does good food. Also café A Estación, just off the second exit, closed Mondays.

Hostal A Taberna De Vento, same building as the restaurant of the same name. Doubles from 40€. Website a-taberna-de-vento.marketinghotelero.top Tel 629 306 679

3.7km to A Eirexe, café. A new private albergue is current being built in A Eirexe. Please see updates.

2.4km to A Laxe.

A Laxe to Silleda: 9.7km
Ascent: 298m Descent: -286m

2km to Prado, shop, pharmacy, café on the main road just to the right of the Camino.

4.8km at the beginning of an industrial zone where the Camino goes left, there is a sign pointing to a café 50m off the Camino. It's more like 150m.

Silleda to Bandeira: 6.9km
Ascent: 82m Descent: -213m

Follow the Camino along the main road north through the town to where it veers left on to a path.

Bandeira to Dornelas: 5.1km
Ascent: 72m Descent: -151m

Use one of the pedestrian crossings in town to cross to the right side of the street, otherwise you'll be crossing at a dangerous bend.

Dornelas to Ponte Ulla: 8.1km
Ascent: 152m Descent: -365m

Steep descent to Ponte Ulla.

Ponte Ulla to Outeiro: 4.3km
Ascent: 248m Descent: -29m

The Camino goes up steps to the right just before the flyover.

Outeiro to Deseiro: 7.9km
Ascent: 157m Descent: -231m

If you feel like treating yourself about 3.4km further along the Camino is a guesthouse which has been recommended, Casa de Casal, double rooms from about 60€. Website www.casadecasal.com Tel 981 503 227

Deseiro to Santiago de Compostela: 9.0km
Ascent: 271m Descent: -229m

4.5km to Piñeiro, cafés.

1.4km just before the suburb of Angrois you'll pass the bridge over the railway track which was the scene of a train crash on 24 July 2013 in which 80 people died.

3.1km to Santiago Cathedral.